Monday, 7 October to Friday, 11 October 2024
Train troubles!
We puchased tickets for the train trip from Leuven to Cochem via a different website to the one we had been using. It showed 2 changes (Liege and then Cologne Messe/Deutz) for a five and a half hour journey. What we discovered at the last minute at the main Cologne station was that the train wasn’t stopping at Messe/Deutz and we had to get off and catch a train across the river to Messe/Deutz. Luckily a kind German had checked for us and held open the door until we could scurry off the train with others in the same boat. We nearly ended up in Frankfurt instead of Cochem for the start of out bike and barge trip. After checking into our hotel we had a quick walk around town to find schnitzel for dinner before the rain started.
Day 1 Bike and Barge – Cochem, Germany
We had the morning free so decided to catch a bus up to Reichsburg Castle where we had a guided tour. Unfortunately the tour was in German but we did have a page of notes to assist. A castle was first built here in the 11th century but was destroyed in 1689 by the French. It lay in ruins until 1868 when it was purchased and rebuilt by a Berlin businessman. Since 1978 it has been owned by the town of Cochem.
After our visit to the castle we made our way to our home for the next 8 nights, the Magnifique III.
After settling in, we were introduced to the Captain and crew and met our fellow bikers. We had 12 from the United States, 4 Canadians, 5 from Taiwan and Warren and I representing Australia. After a briefing, our guides helped us set up our bikes. It was then off to town before dinner with one of our guides, Ingrid, for a walk through Cochem. The Old Town is surrounded by beautiful timber-framed houses, quaint little cafes, and interesting shops.
Day 2 – Cochem to Zell – 37 kms
After breakfast, we headed off in light rain that unfortunately got heavier as the day wore on. Our first stop was Beilstein, one of the best-preserved historical villages on the Mosel. The ruins of Castle Metternich sit on the hill top, overlooking the village. The baroque church contains the “Black Madonna”, left by the Spanish in the 12th or 13th century.
After morning tea in the warmth of a local cafe, we continued along the Moselle cycle path. Lunch was in Ediger a small village with the essentials for our lunch – shelter from the rain, water and toilets. Next we passed Europe’s steepest vineyard at Bremm, a truly impressive sight with some slopes inclining up to 60 degrees. Not long after this we were passed by our barge, struggling against the current to get to our destination, Zell. We eventually arrived having given our wet weather gear a good test (it passed) wondering if and when the rains would stop.
Zell on the Mosel, is well known for the wine, Zeller Schwarze Katz. After a quick shower to warm up, we headed across the river for a wine tasting at the Weingut Treis winery. This winery has been operating since 1580 and our 80 year old host was 11th generation. Now run by his children, our host entertained us for over an hour as we tasted 6 of their wines (and they were generous pours by our host) and purchased 2 to take back onboard.
My favourite story was that his doctor said not to worry if his liver function tests were a bit high – he had a Moselle liver!
Day 3 – Zell to …….. Zell – 21 kms
We headed off today under brighter skies from Zell with the aim of reaching Bernkastel-Kues, 45 kms away. Our ride started well with some cycling through the vineyards before we dropped down to the cycle path beside the Moselle River.
Unfortunately, the river was still rising and after going through one lot of water we encountered a larger, deeper section that gave us all wet feet.
We stopped at the next town to wring out our socks, not looking forward to another 35 kms in these conditions. While here the local river police came to tell us the cycle path was closed and all river traffic halted as the locks were not operating. Our barge had left Zell only to be told they had to return.
Luckily there was a higher path on the opposite bank of the river that we could ride back to Zell.
Cold and still with wet feet, we ate our lunch in the Zell Tourist Office, waiting until we could board our ship. Barricades had been placed along the bank to protect the town and the crew had to build walkways to cross them.
Day 4 Zell
We awoke to find the river levels had finally stopped rising but the flood barriers were still in place.
The Captain explained our barge couldn’t leave until the locks were operating, hopefully in the afternoon. In the meantime the crew set up walkways over the barricade so that we could explore the town further.
The town’s love of black cats is evident everywhere!
After lunch on board we finally left Zell – by barge rather than bike.