This entry is part 9 of 14 in the series 2024 Europe
27 – 29 September 2024
We decided to skip the city tour in Volkach and instead cycle through the German countryside.
Our guide Elena led 9 of us along the river, beside green vineyards to the very pretty town of Sommerach.
All of these towns are so well maintained, with flower beds and trimmed trees.
We left by the town gate
On our return to Volkach we headed into town to buy some streamers to decorate the back lounge area in Lions colours for the Grand Final. We had arranged with the Captain to use this area at 0630 tomorrow for the big game.
Our early rising was rewarded with a 120 to 60 win to the Lions. We grabbed a couple of bottles of bubbles from the breakfast and all toasted the great win. We had a quick walk around Wurzburg afterwards before boarding the ship which began an overnight sail to Miltenberg.
We skipped the town tour and decided on a hike in the forest above the town. It was a cold morning but lovely to be out in nature.
Afterwards we wandered around the old medieval town with houses from the 13th and 15th centuries. As it was Sunday, shops were closed and the streets very quiet.
Town gate built in 1400
At noon the ship started sailing again, with a violinist providing entertainment as we cruised along the Main which was soon to join the Rhine River for the final leg of our river cruise.
This entry is part 8 of 14 in the series 2024 Europe
25, 26 September 2024
On Wednesday morning while cruising down the Main Danube Canal we listened to a very interesting presentation about the construction of this canal which links the North Sea with the Black Sea. Completed in 1992 it is 171 kms long and allows cruise ships such as ours to cross the European watershed.
Avalon Imagery II moored in the canal
In the afternoon we headed off for a tour of the Nuremberg rally grounds. We had an excellent guide who explained how Hitler had grand plans for 11 sq km of buildings and grounds to hold his party congresses and speak to the party. She said it took until the 1960s before Germans started to address the past and the rally grounds serve as a memorial to the victims of Nazi repression.
Before wandering the city itself we saw the courthouse where the Nuremberg trials were held. Nuremberg was chosen as it was the only town with a large enough courthouse still standing with a jail next door.
Nuremberg
After another overnight sail, we awoke Thursday in Bamberg, where the canal joins the Main river. A city walk allowed us to admire this UNESCO heritage site with its many beautiful old buildings and houses.
Fisherman’s houses beside the riverTown Hall
After lunch Warren listened to another talk, this time about the formation of the European Union before we both tried our hand, unsuccessfully, at a Cornhole tournament. Some of the Americans on board play this game regularly and won the competition.
This entry is part 7 of 14 in the series 2024 Europe
Sunday, 22 September to Tuesday, 24 September 2024
Melk, Passau and Regensberg
Sunday morning we boarded a bus in Vienna to drive to Krems where we were meeting our ship, the Avalon Imagery II. It was one of only 2 river ships that had negotiated the Danube that far downstream.
We arrived in time for lunch and a cruise up the Danube to Melk, site of a beautiful Benedictine abbey. Founded in 1089, today’s baroque abbey was built in the early 18th century.
There was evidence of quite high flooding here in Melk although the authorities have worked hard to open the river, roads and bikeways.
After arriving back on board, we departed for an overnight passage to Passau.
Passau sits at the confluence of the Danube, Inn and Ilz rivers
In Passau, we had arranged to meet friends Scott and Helen who were cycling across France, Germany and Austria. Luckily after the changes to our plans due to the flooding, we were back on track and spent a great couple of hours catching up on each others travels.
After our short stop in Passau we were off for another overnight sail to Regensberg.
Walhalla monument (seen from our breakfast table)
On arriving in Regensberg we set off for our first bike ride with adventure host Elena.
We were pleased to discover we were going to Walhalla. This is a monument to distinguished Germans – politicians, sovereigns, scientists and artists.
This entry is part 6 of 14 in the series 2024 Europe
16 to 21 September, 2024
After finishing the Camino, we caught the bus back to Porto where we had a free day. Unfortunately smoke from local bushfires made it quite unpleasant there so we had a quiet day. Tuesday we were catching an early flight to Amsterdam, where we had a 4 hour stopover before the next flight to Budapest. After arising at 0445, we were very tired when we finally got off the plane in Budapest late in the afternoon.
Unfortunately, my bag didn’t make the trip with me! After logging details with KLM, we caught a bus to our hotel (free for over 65s) with hopes that my bag would appear later that night.
The next morning we were up early and went for a walk to check the level of the Danube. While we had been having glorious weather in Portugal and Spain, Germany and Austria had torrential rain from a low pressure system that caused serious flooding of the Danube and other rivers.
The waters were over the lower roadways and no river boats could fit under the bridges or handle the current.
Preparing for the 4th highest flood in Budapest’s history
The ship we were due to board today, Avalon Imagery II, was safely docked near Linz, 400 kms away. Avalon had contacted us several days ago to explain our cruise had to be modified. They were going to put us up for 2 nights in Budapest and 2 nights in Vienna where we would do our tours as planned.
Corinthia hotel in Budapest – not too shabby
We walked to our new hotel, resisting the urge to visit the Cats Museum, and settled in (still no sign of my bag btw so a quick trip to the shops to buy a couple of tops).
That night we were briefed by Tour Director Ingrid of their plans until we joined our ship on Sunday. On Thursday, we boarded a bus to visit the Buda side of the Danube. Luckily my bag had arrived late the night before.
Parliament House on the Pest side of the river
The Fisherman’s Bastion overlooks the Danube here. Rich people lived on the hill so the fisherman bought their catch here to sell.
Beautiful tiles on Matthias ChurchRecently built government building blends in perfectly
Our tour finished at the Budapest botanical gardens where we sampled a favourite Hungarian street food – chimney cake.
Unfortunately by the afternoon I was very unwell with a gastric bug so skipped dinner to try to sleep it off. I was a bit better in the morning luckily as we boarded the bus to Bratislava.
We had a guided walk of the old town which was pretty but I still wasn’t 100% so sat in a square in the sun until it was time to go back to the bus.
Filming in the streetsUFO restaurant on the bridge
We arrived in Vienna late on Friday and settled into the Hilton. Getting on and off buses was not what we had planned but Avalon made the best of a bad situation. Saturday morning we skipped the city tour to watch the preliminary final. Another come from behind win for the Lions over Geelong to put us into the Grand Final!
Warren had a cold so didn’t join me for a walk around town in the afternoon listening to a Rick Steves Audio Tour.
City Gardens next to our hotelSt Stephens CathedralMonument against War and FascismHeroes Square being used for a kids sports promotionGymnastics or Turnsports
After dinner I joined others on board to see a concert while Warren decided on an early night. It was an entertaining mix of classical music, dance and comedy.
We were excited to hear we would be joining our boat on Sunday at Krems.
This entry is part 2 of 14 in the series 2024 Europe
6, 7 September and 15, 16 September 2024
On Friday afternoon, we caught the train to Porto from Lisbon. About 3 hours and a very smooth trip.
Then a bus to the Hotel Porto Trindade. Next morning, we did some washing before we settled in to watch the Lions play Carlton in an elimination final. With a 60 – 0 lead at one point there were some nervous moments before we came out winners 99 – 71.
In the afternoon, we had a bike fitting with Sergio of Top Bike Tours Portugal (https://topbiketoursportugal.com/) so we are ready for the start of our Camino tomorrow.
After this we were met at the hotel by Johann who took our group on a great walking tour of the old town.
Bolsa Palace and Prince Henry the NavigatorPorto train stationTiles on the apartmentsPonte Luis I“Most beautiful Maccas“ JohannArt deco interiorEagle to keep the pigeons away
After the tour we went to a bar with new Kiwi friends Mark and Dianne.
Mateus Rose by the river
After this it was time for a tour of one of the port houses and a tasting of their ports.
Dinner on the riverbank was a great end to the day.
We returned to Porto a week later via a BlaBlaCar bus. Conditions could not have been more different. Hot, windy and lots of smoke from nearby bushfires. I’m glad this was not our first look at this beautiful city.
This entry is part 5 of 14 in the series 2024 Europe
12 – 15 September 2024
Day 5 – Pontevedra to Caldas dos Reis – 26 kms
This was a short day but busier on the trail with lots of walkers. With rocks, tree roots and the walkers to negotiate it was testing but beautiful riding.
Even the smallest of villages have a church
Our first surprise was a snack stop in the forest at a waterfall.
Next stop was at a small hot spring pool in the town of Caldas dos Reis.
Then it was time for a special tapas lunch in town with our group. Lots of local food, lots of wine and lots of laughs.
Then after a short ride out of town (mostly uphill of course), we arrived at our very special accomodation Torre do Rio. A spectacular house perched on a hill between 2 streams, one stream fed directly into the pool!
Lord of the manor
Day 6 – Caldas dos Reis to Santiago de Compostela – 46 kms
Our final day saw us riding through vineyards, forests and some roads. Lots of walkers all glad to be nearing their final destination, the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. We had 2 stops, coffee and then a stop at the Santiago church in Padron. Under the altar there is a large stone that legend says the boat carrying the body of St James was tied to on its journey to Santiago de Compostela.
We were getting close now so stopped to add a stone to the last marker.
3 kms to go
Not long after we finished in the square in front of the cathedral at 1400.
A few photos and then we were off to get proof of our adventure, our certificates. At the start of our ride we were given passports that are stamped at places along the way. These are checked before the certificate is issued.
After eventually finding our hotel, we showered and went for a guided walk and then to the Pilgrims Museum which we enjoyed.
Friends Mary Beth and Rich had invited us to join them at the Pilgrims Mass that evening before dinner. We were very privileged to share their reserved front row seats.
The mass is in Latin so hard to follow however the highlight was the Botafumeiro.
The Botafumeiro (“censer”) is one of the most famous and popular symbols of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. It hangs by means of a system of pulleys from the main dome of the Cathedral and swings toward the side naves where we were seated. It takes eight men to move it, who are known as “tiraboleiros”.
It weighs 53 kg and measures 1.50 metres; it hangs from a height of 20 metres and can reach speeds of over 65 km/hr.
Our view of the Botafumeiro
We finished our day with an excellent final dinner with our group.
Sergio surprised us with a video he had compiled over the week. Warning: it is about 30 minutes long!
We can certainly recommend Top Bike Tours Portugal if you would like to ride the Camino or one of their other tours!
Our final day in Santiago de Compostela was spent doing laundry so we are ready for the next adventure and watching the mighty Lions come back from 44 points down to win their semi-final against GWS!
This entry is part 4 of 14 in the series 2024 Europe
10, 11 September 2024
Day 3 – Caminha to Baiona – 39 kms
We started the day by riding a short distance to a very small boat that was going to carry us across the Minho river into Spain. 6 riders and 6 bikes per trip. Did I mention it was a small boat?
Half way across we came to a stop. Some concern from the skipper and all caught on camera by Peter, former US Coastguard skipper.
We eventually made it ashore!
After moving our watches forward an hour, we started cycling to Baiona. More cycling along the coast some on bikeways, some on the road.
143 kms to go
We eventually arrived in Baiona where there is a replica of the Pinta, one of the 3 ships in Christopher Columbus‘s fleet.
The Pinta returned to Baiona in 1493 making the port the first to hear of the discovery of America. We spent the night in a castle – a first for us.
Tapas a bit bigger than we are used to!Traditional singers preparing for a function in our hotel
Day 4 – Baiona to Pontevedra – 65 kms
Today we were warned that we would do some climbing, but first we rode beside the bay on a mix of bikeways and quiet roads.
We had a morning tea stop in Vigo an old city with a large car free square.
After leaving Vigo we had our first big climb and then followed the path for some beautiful views over Vigo Bay for 9 kms.
92.5 kms to goOysters farmed using the floating platforms in the bay
There was a steep downhill, then we rode into Redondela for lunch.
Espigueiros are common in N Portugal and Spain and were used to store grains etc.
After lunch we had some nice riding through forests which kept us cool. There was one last climb of 3 kms towards the end of the day before we arrived at our equally impressive accomodation in the Baron’s Casa.
We finished the day with a walk around Pontevedra with a local guide.
Ravochol the parrot lived at the pharmacy for 22 years until 1913.
This entry is part 3 of 14 in the series 2024 Europe
8, 9 September 2024
Day 1 – Porto to Esposende– 64 kms
Our group loaded our bags on the bus and walked to Top Bike Tours Portugal’s shop to pick up our Scott e-bikes and start our tour. Our guide Sergio led us to the start of the Camino at the Porto Cathedral.
248 km to go
We were led out of town by guide Sergio who negotiated the weekend crowds well. We were met at various points along the way by Telmo, who was driving the van today. He made sure we had plenty of water, fruit and snacks.
Guides Telmo and Sergio (owner of the company)
First stop was at the beach were the locals were enjoying the beautiful weather.
Telmo said this was a popular beach to learn to surf.
We continued to ride along the foreshore. Lots of cobblestones and boardwalks didn’t make for the most comfortable ride but this was made up by the beautiful scenery.
We had to overcome one obstacle when the boardwalk suddenly disappeared.
We stopped to visit a replica of a Portuguese Caravel
and then had a short ride through the bush where Geoff got a flat tyre. It gave us all a chance to admire the remains of the Roman road next to the “newer” cobbles
Tube expertly changed by Sergio and we were soon on our way to finish at the seaside town of Esposende after 64 kms.
View from our room
Dinner was at a traditional Portuguese seafood restaurant.
Day 2 – Esposende to Caminha – 51kms
Today started with another flat tyre – to Geoff again!
Telmo’s turn to show his skills
Another beautiful day. Early sea fog burnt off to blue skies again.
Thankfully not as many cobbles today
There was more riding through bush which our bottoms appreciated.
Old Camino marker
Lunch was at the lovely old town to Viana do Castelo. It was decorated for an upcoming festival and we enjoyed tasty pastries from a cafe. Food in Portugal is incredibly cheap.
Headwind after lunch made me glad for the e-bike.
Not sure who is going to swim between those flags!More nice beachesBoardwalk into Caminha
Our accommodation tonight was in Caminha which is situated on the Minho River, The river forms the northern border of Portugal with Spain.
This entry is part 1 of 14 in the series 2024 Europe
Lisbon, Portugal
Tuesday, 3 September – Thursday, 5 September
We left Brisbane International Airport at 0155 after having dinner with Ben who kindly dropped us at the airport. We were both tired by the time we boarded but waited until after the meal service to get some sleep (about 4 hours for me).
We landed in Dubai at 0930 local time (1530 in Brisbane). 5 hour wait for our connecting flight to Lisbon where we arrived at 2130. That was 32 hours after we arrived at the airport.
On Wednesday we bought a Lisbon Card and then caught the bus to the Monastery of Jeronomis. Long queues so we decided to move onto the Maritime Museum. Wonderful museum with lots of the history of the golden years of Portuguese exploring. Vasco de Gama is the most famous of these explorers having been the first to discover the sea route to India.
Portuguese voyages
Next stop was the Belem Tower on the Tagus River. Built to shore up the defences of Lisbon, it later served as a prison and now a popular tourist attraction – so popular we couldn’t climb the tower.
Monument to Discoveries
Back to the Monastery of Jeronimos to admire the cloisters and the church.
Tomb of Vasco da Gama
Day 2 began with 2 metro rides to the Lisbon Oceanarium (advertised as best in the world!)
After this it was back to town to visit the Lisbon Story display. An interesting presentation on the 1755 earthquake that destroyed most of Lisbon.
Next was a walk around the old parts of town using a Rick Steves Audio tour.
Lisbon’s famous mosaic footpathsLisbon is hilly so has a lift on the streetFunicular not working so a steep walk up the hill instead
Our last morning in Lisbon we caught the famous 28 Tram through the narrow streets. Close calls aplenty and stopped at one point by a car parked on the track.
Next was to catch the metro to the train station for a 3 hour trip to Porto!