Month: September 2024

12 – 15 September 2024

Day 5 – Pontevedra to Caldas dos Reis – 26 kms

This was a short day but busier on the trail with lots of walkers. With rocks, tree roots and the walkers to negotiate it was testing but beautiful riding.

Our first surprise was a snack stop in the forest at a waterfall.

Next stop was at a small hot spring pool in the town of Caldas dos Reis.

Then it was time for a special tapas lunch in town with our group. Lots of local food, lots of wine and lots of laughs.

Then after a short ride out of town (mostly uphill of course), we arrived at our very special accomodation Torre do Rio. A spectacular house perched on a hill between 2 streams, one stream fed directly into the pool!

Day 6 – Caldas dos Reis to Santiago de Compostela – 46 kms

Our final day saw us riding through vineyards, forests and some roads. Lots of walkers all glad to be nearing their final destination, the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. We had 2 stops, coffee and then a stop at the Santiago church in Padron. Under the altar there is a large stone that legend says the boat carrying the body of St James was tied to on its journey to Santiago de Compostela.

We were getting close now so stopped to add a stone to the last marker.

Not long after we finished in the square in front of the cathedral at 1400.

A few photos and then we were off to get proof of our adventure, our certificates. At the start of our ride we were given passports that are stamped at places along the way. These are checked before the certificate is issued.

After eventually finding our hotel, we showered and went for a guided walk and then to the Pilgrims Museum which we enjoyed.

Friends Mary Beth and Rich had invited us to join them at the Pilgrims Mass that evening before dinner. We were very privileged to share their reserved front row seats.

The mass is in Latin so hard to follow however the highlight was the Botafumeiro.

The Botafumeiro (“censer”) is one of the most famous and popular symbols of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. It hangs by means of a system of pulleys from the main dome of the Cathedral and swings toward the side naves where we were seated. It takes eight men to move it, who are known as “tiraboleiros”.

It weighs 53 kg and measures 1.50 metres; it hangs from a height of 20 metres and can reach speeds of over 65 km/hr.

We finished our day with an excellent final dinner with our group.

Sergio surprised us with a video he had compiled over the week. Warning: it is about 30 minutes long!

We can certainly recommend Top Bike Tours Portugal if you would like to ride the Camino or one of their other tours!

https://topbiketoursportugal.com/

Our final day in Santiago de Compostela was spent doing laundry so we are ready for the next adventure and watching the mighty Lions come back from 44 points down to win their semi-final against GWS!

10, 11 September 2024

Day 3 – Caminha to Baiona – 39 kms

We started the day by riding a short distance to a very small boat that was going to carry us across the Minho river into Spain. 6 riders and 6 bikes per trip. Did I mention it was a small boat?

Half way across we came to a stop. Some concern from the skipper and all caught on camera by Peter, former US Coastguard skipper.

After moving our watches forward an hour, we started cycling to Baiona. More cycling along the coast some on bikeways, some on the road.

We eventually arrived in Baiona where there is a replica of the Pinta, one of the 3 ships in Christopher Columbus‘s fleet.

The Pinta returned to Baiona in 1493 making the port the first to hear of the discovery of America. We spent the night in a castle – a first for us.

Day 4 – Baiona to Pontevedra – 65 kms

Today we were warned that we would do some climbing, but first we rode beside the bay on a mix of bikeways and quiet roads.

We had a morning tea stop in Vigo an old city with a large car free square.

After leaving Vigo we had our first big climb and then followed the path for some beautiful views over Vigo Bay for 9 kms.

There was a steep downhill, then we rode into Redondela for lunch.

After lunch we had some nice riding through forests which kept us cool. There was one last climb of 3 kms towards the end of the day before we arrived at our equally impressive accomodation in the Baron’s Casa.

We finished the day with a walk around Pontevedra with a local guide.

8, 9 September 2024

Day 1 – Porto to Esposende – 64 kms

Our group loaded our bags on the bus and walked to Top Bike Tours Portugal’s shop to pick up our Scott e-bikes and start our tour. Our guide Sergio led us to the start of the Camino at the Porto Cathedral.

We were led out of town by guide Sergio who negotiated the weekend crowds well. We were met at various points along the way by Telmo, who was driving the van today. He made sure we had plenty of water, fruit and snacks.

First stop was at the beach were the locals were enjoying the beautiful weather.

Telmo said this was a popular beach to learn to surf.

We continued to ride along the foreshore. Lots of cobblestones and boardwalks didn’t make for the most comfortable ride but this was made up by the beautiful scenery.

We had to overcome one obstacle when the boardwalk suddenly disappeared.

We stopped to visit a replica of a Portuguese Caravel

and then had a short ride through the bush where Geoff got a flat tyre. It gave us all a chance to admire the remains of the Roman road next to the “newer” cobbles

Tube expertly changed by Sergio and we were soon on our way to finish at the seaside town of Esposende after 64 kms.

Dinner was at a traditional Portuguese seafood restaurant.

Day 2 – Esposende to Caminha – 51kms

Today started with another flat tyre – to Geoff again!

Another beautiful day. Early sea fog burnt off to blue skies again.

There was more riding through bush which our bottoms appreciated.

Lunch was at the lovely old town to Viana do Castelo. It was decorated for an upcoming festival and we enjoyed tasty pastries from a cafe. Food in Portugal is incredibly cheap.

Headwind after lunch made me glad for the e-bike.

Caminha is situated on the Minho River which forms the northern border of Portugal with Spain.

6, 7 September and 15, 16 September 2024

On Friday afternoon, we caught the train to Porto from Lisbon. About 3 hours and a very smooth trip.

Then a bus to the Hotel Porto Trindade. Next morning, we did some washing before we settled in to watch the Lions play Carlton in an elimination final. With a 60 – 0 lead at one point there were some nervous moments before we came out winners 99 – 71.

In the afternoon, we had a bike fitting with Sergio of Top Bike Tours Portugal (https://topbiketoursportugal.com/) so we are ready for the start of our Camino tomorrow.

After this we were met at the hotel by Johann who took our group on a great walking tour of the old town.

After the tour we went to a bar with new Kiwi friends Mark and Dianne.

After this it was time for a tour of one of the port houses and a tasting of their ports.

Dinner on the riverbank was a great end to the day.

We returned to Porto a week later via a BlaBlaCar bus. Conditions could not have been more different. Hot, windy and lots of smoke from nearby bushfires. I’m glad this was not our first look at this beautiful city.

Lisbon, Portugal

Tuesday, 3 September – Thursday, 5 September

We left Brisbane International Airport at 0155 after having dinner with Ben who kindly dropped us at the airport. We were both tired by the time we boarded but waited until after the meal service to get some sleep (about 4 hours for me).

We landed in Dubai at 0930 local time (1530 in Brisbane). 5 hour wait for our connecting flight to Lisbon where we arrived at 2130. That was 32 hours after we arrived at the airport.

On Wednesday we bought a Lisbon Card and then caught the bus to the Monastery of Jeronomis. Long queues so we decided to move onto the Maritime Museum. Wonderful museum with lots of the history of the golden years of Portuguese exploring. Vasco de Gama is the most famous of these explorers having been the first to discover the sea route to India.

Next stop was the Belem Tower on the Tagus River. Built to shore up the defences of Lisbon, it later served as a prison and now a popular tourist attraction – so popular we couldn’t climb the tower.

Back to the Monastery of Jeronimos to admire the cloisters and the church.

Day 2 began with 2 metro rides to the Lisbon Oceanarium (advertised as best in the world!)

After this it was back to town to visit the Lisbon Story display. An interesting presentation on the 1755 earthquake that destroyed most of Lisbon.

Next was a walk around the old parts of town using a Rick Steves Audio tour.

Our last morning in Lisbon we caught the famous 28 Tram through the narrow streets. Close calls aplenty and stopped at one point by a car parked on the track.

Next was to catch the metro to the train station for a 3 hour trip to Porto!