Monday, 13 May to Tuesday, 14 May 2019
We awoke to a beautiful if cool morning in Leiden.
We are starting to get into the boat routine, breakfast at 8 and on the bikes by 9 for the day’s adventure. We rode to the western gate to see where Rembrandt was born before riding again through the dunes to our morning tea stop on the North Sea.
From here more riding through dunes including a memorial to resistance fighters executed here during the second world war. The tracks are excellent with sections for bikes, pedestrians and horses.
Next stop was The Hague, with some beautiful riding through parks and a stop at the royal palace.
While we were looking at the parliament buildings, Rikko was excited to point out the Netherlands Prime Minister walking by. He said hello and we were surprised that there was no sign of security.
After a late lunch we headed for the Quo Vadis moored in Delft. 45 kms today. Another city tour after dinner saw us fall into bed exhausted yet again.
On Tuesday morning we left Delft and headed to Rotterdam, known for its architecture and bridges. Another scenic ride to the second largest city and the largest port in the Netherlands.
We had lunch in the Marketplace, an architectural wonder of apartments over the market area.
May 14 was the 79th anniversary of the bombing of Rotterdam when the city centre was flattened. Bells in all the churches started tolling at 1.20, the time the raid started. It was very moving.
After lunch we boarded a fast ferry to Kindersdijk to visit a windmill and hear how they were vital for water management in the country below sea level. 19 of the original 20 windmills remain.
Back on the Quo Vadis for a dinner cruise to Willemstad and another city walk. 38 kms today.
Day 1 Ride route 
We had a quick break here and saw a beautifully maintained steamboat being readied for a trip on the lake. The next section of the A2O was on road and included a 3km hill (or undulation as the guides prefer to call them). The downhill was welcome before we turned off the road to head for the Benmore Dam Wall. Warren was one of only a couple who didn’t have to push their bikes some of the way up this steep pinch.
From here it was another lovely ride beside Lake Aviemore where we stopped for a picnic lunch.
Another 6km to the Aviemore Dam wall which unfortunately was closed for 2 days for maintenance (a once in 50 year event!)
This meant we had to board the bus and retrace our tracks back to the main road at Otematata and then onto Kurow. Our tour does not allow cycling on this stretch of road as it is very busy with many blind corners. I don’t think anyone was disappointed at only riding 53 kms today.
Our accommodation for tonight was the recently restored Waitaki Braids. Made of local stone, this was voted the best accomodation and the best meal, venison, for the entire trip. Our host, Kate told us 18,000 cyclists pass through Kurow every year.
Morning tea was a welcome break as was the trail around Lake Ohau which was somewhat protected from the wind.
We stopped for a very tasty lunch at Lake Ohau Lodge where we finally were able to see Mt Cook on a beautiful clear day. After lunch, 8 of us started the climb to the Tarnbrae Highpoint (one of the toughest parts of the trail).
It was hard, hot and dusty riding on rough shingle.
The final 23 kms were meant to have a tailwind but the wind had followed us around so was in our yet face again. Altogether we rode 82 kms today in what was one of our toughest days on a bike.
Sadly the wind had changed and we had strong head and cross winds for the 29 km ride to Lake Pukaki. We rode beside the canal at the start passing a large salmon farm.
We then hopped on the bus and headed towards Mt Cook and Tasman Glacier. The weather was inclement and the summit of Mt Cook was covered in clouds but we climbed the 250 steps up to view Tasman Glacier which is receding at an alarming rate (450 to 900 m per year).
We then enjoyed a nice lunch at the cafe in Mt Cook village and visited the Dept of Conservation visitors centre which told some of the history of the early climbers including Freda du Faur, a Tasmanian who was the first woman to climb Mt Cook (skirt and all).
In the afternoon we went back to Pukaki to rejoin the cycle route, leaving the clouds and rain behind and enjoying the blue sky and waters. We biked 11 km to Twizel, a small town built to house the hydro electric workers.
We then drove to and through the town of Tekapo to ride the first 14 km of the alternate start to the A2O. Sue suggested we ride back to town to avoid the wind that had increased. Good plan but still a windy ride.
Our accomodation for the night was in a holiday house we shared with new American friends Grosvenor and Wendy from Maine.
A pretty town by Lake Tekapo that is experiencing a building boom.
