Category: 2019 Europe

Wednesday, 15 May to Thursday, 16 May 2019

We left Willemstad and headed roughly west – again with a NE tailwind. We went over 3 huge locks where Warren unfortunately had a tumble after another rider went down. Luckily both were ok and we continued along a dyke to the nearby island. We were now riding past fields of crops over quiet country roads.

Quo Vadis entering the lock

Our morning tea stop was at the worst hit town of the great flood of 1953. Over 300 people lost their lives at the small village of Oude Tonge. We visited the cemetery where the victims were buried in a mass grave on the dyke, the only dry land in the village at the time. It was 9 months before the holes in the dykes were repaired and the people could return to their homes.

From here we cycled across another long dyke and into the province of Zeeland. Lunch was a picnic beside the dyke before we headed to the Watersnood (Flood) Museum.

The museum was built inside the 4 concrete caissons that were used to close the last breach of the dyke after the flood. There had been 67 breaches in total and this last breach was not closed until November 1953, 9 months after the storm. 1836 people lost their lives and the government responded with the Delta Works project to prevent a recurrence.

After our visit we headed to Zierikzee after 57km on the bike.

On Thursday we rode from Zierekzee along the dykes stopping to view the Zeeland bridge and a tower that is all that is left of a village washed away during a storm.

We had a morning tea stop overlooking the islands and the Delta Works barriers that can be lowered to prevent storm waters flooding the delta. They are 15km long and close automatically if the water level gets to 3m above the Amsterdam standard. It is an amazing feat of engineering and we appreciated it much more after yesterday’s visit to the flood museum.

We then cycled to the beach for lunch and then on to the busy tourist village of Veere. A few more kms and we arrived at Middleburg after 55km.

We had another small city walk with Rikko, about an hour around Middleburg. It was bombed heavily before Zeeland surrendered, 3 days after the rest of the Netherlands.

Monday, 13 May to Tuesday, 14 May 2019

We awoke to a beautiful if cool morning in Leiden.

We are starting to get into the boat routine, breakfast at 8 and on the bikes by 9 for the day’s adventure. We rode to the western gate to see where Rembrandt was born before riding again through the dunes to our morning tea stop on the North Sea.

From here more riding through dunes including a memorial to resistance fighters executed here during the second world war. The tracks are excellent with sections for bikes, pedestrians and horses.

Next stop was The Hague, with some beautiful riding through parks and a stop at the royal palace.

While we were looking at the parliament buildings, Rikko was excited to point out the Netherlands Prime Minister walking by. He said hello and we were surprised that there was no sign of security.

After a late lunch we headed for the Quo Vadis moored in Delft. 45 kms today. Another city tour after dinner saw us fall into bed exhausted yet again.

On Tuesday morning we left Delft and headed to Rotterdam, known for its architecture and bridges. Another scenic ride to the second largest city and the largest port in the Netherlands.

We had lunch in the Marketplace, an architectural wonder of apartments over the market area.

May 14 was the 79th anniversary of the bombing of Rotterdam when the city centre was flattened. Bells in all the churches started tolling at 1.20, the time the raid started. It was very moving.

After lunch we boarded a fast ferry to Kindersdijk to visit a windmill and hear how they were vital for water management in the country below sea level. 19 of the original 20 windmills remain.

Back on the Quo Vadis for a dinner cruise to Willemstad and another city walk. 38 kms today.

Saturday, 11 May to Sunday 12 May 2019

We caught 2 trams from our hotel to reach our home for the next 10 nights – the barge Quo Vadis. We sailed out of Amsterdam at 1430 after meeting our crew of Captain Burt, 1st mate Franco, chef Agnes and Nayler, chefs assistant and housekeeping. Our cycling guides were Rikko and Andre. We had 18 cyclists on board – 5 Australians, 2 Americans and 11 Canadians.

We said goodbye to Amsterdam and made our way along the North Sea canal before entering a smaller canal towards Spaarndam. At 1630 our bikes were unloaded and we began a short 17 km ride to meet the Quo Vadis at Haarlem.

 

    Day 1 Ride route Amsterdam to Haarlem – 17kms

It was 6 degrees when we woke up on Sunday morning and with a strong wind off the North Sea it felt even colder. We started with a tour of Haarlem including a Jewish memorial.

When it started to rain, Rikko assured us it wouldn’t last long but it was long enough to make us all look forward to our morning tea stop after just 10 kms. The sun was out for the 19km to Noordwijk on the North Sea much of the ride on tracks through the coastal dunes.

We had passed the Atlantic Wall Museum on the way so during our lunch break a few of us cycled back for a look.

The last 25 km to Leiden saw some beautiful scenery and a 1715 arrival back at the barge.

Another beautiful dinner followed by a briefing for the next day and then an hour and a half walk around the old town. A long but interesting day.

Day 2 Ride Routes Haarlem to morning tea – 10km

Morning tea to Noordwijk – 19km

Noordwijk to Leiden – 25kms