The Vatican

This entry is part 24 of 24 in the series 2015 Europe

We had booked a tour to visit the Vatican and we were grateful we had. Queues of people trying to get in and we entered without fuss with our guide. It was an amazing complex filled with priceless artwork and hundreds of tourists.

I was surprised by the beautiful gardens and the number of museums – we were just scratching the surface with our 3 hour tour.

The Sistine Chapel was beautiful – no photos and no talking which people seemed to respect. The tour finished at Saint Peter’s Square – familiar from so many movies and watching the black and white smoke during the election of a new pope.

Pompeii and Mt Vesuvius

This entry is part 23 of 24 in the series 2015 Europe

We elected to visit the amazing ruins of Pompei via a bus trip from Rome. As this is about a 4 hour trip it required an early start. Our guides gave us a good briefing about the site on the way which helped to pass the time and we all had a snooze.

By the time we arrived at the entrance we knew that Pompeii and some nearby villas had been covered in 4-6 m of volcanic ash and pumice after the eruption of Mt Vesuvius in 79 AD. The ruins had been largely preserved by the ash and were not rediscovered until the 17th century.

It was the early 19th century however before serious excavations began. These well preserved remains give a snapshot of Roman life at that time. It was a wealthy town with many fine buildings, a Forum and amphitheater.

Most poignant were the plaster casts of people and family groups discovered preserved in situ. 

A brothel in one of the side streets displayed some interesting artwork. Over 2.5 million tourists visit the site every year.

After lunch at Naples (pizza of course), we drove to nearby Mt Vesuvius and climbed to the top of the crater. This took about half an hour in the hot conditions. It was very desolate and while there was not much happening while we were there it is still and active volcano.

After all the walking and climbing, we were glad to have another snooze on the bus on the long drive back to Rome, arriving well after dark.

The Eternal City – Rome

This entry is part 22 of 24 in the series 2015 Europe

On Tuesday we left our hotel to catch the 0900 train to La Spezia and then the Intercity to Roma Termini. We arrived about 1430, found our way to the Metro for a 2 stop trip to Barberini station before a 30 minute walk to our hotel.

We discovered a lovely old hotel, close to Trevi fountain with nice rooms with good airconditioning – essential as the temperatures stayed in the 30s for our entire stay. After unpacking we went for a walk to the Trevi fountain, Column of Marcus Aurelius and the Spanish steps – all a short walk from our hotel. So much wonderful history so close!

Column tells a story

Fontana della Barcaccia – Fountain of the Ugly Boat which sits at the base of the Spanish steps was built in the 17th Century.

On Wednesday we had booked a Rome walking tour with a local guide, Roberto which started at the Largo di Torre Argentina, site of the ruins of 4 Roman temples and near the site where Julius Caesar was killed.

Largo do Torre Argentina

From here we strolled down small cobblestone lanes and visited Palazzo Farnese and Piazza Navona with its beautiful Fountain of the Four Rivers by Gian Bernini.

Fountain of the Four Rivers – Piazza Navona

Palazzo Farnese

Roberto was most upset that the French Government was given a 99 year of the Palazzo Farnese in 1936. He was looking forward to it returning to the Italian people in 2035. Next was the amazing Pantheon. This is the best preserved ancient Roman building as it has been in continuous use since it was rebuilt in 128 AD by Emperor Hadrian. Its dome is still the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome.

Pantheon

We then wandered to the Trevi fountain and then finished at the Spanish steps. Our guide gave us an insight into living in Rome and a better appreciation of the architecture and history of the sights we visited.

Trevi fountain – No water and scaffolding but it was still attracting lots of tourists.

After a relax in our room to cool down we went for walk in the afternoon to Villa Borgese gardens and a trip to the Museum of Leonardo Da Vinci. This had many models built from Leonardo’s sketches and showed what wide ranging ideas he had.

Model of Leonardo’s tank

Dinner that night was in a restaurant in the nearby Galleria Colonna. An original letter from Galileo Galilei to Clavius explaining his belief that the planets revolved around the sun was on display here. As scientists we were amazed at this piece of history.

Letter from Galileo

On Thursday we visited the Colosseum. Warren had been looking forward to this all trip. He was not disappointed.

Colosseum

Cinque Terra

This entry is part 21 of 24 in the series 2015 Europe

Monterosso Al Mare, Italy

It was a long trip on the trains from Mantova to Monterosso, one of the villages of Cinque Terra. We had to change trains at Verona, Milan and La Spezia before we eventually arrived at our hotel at Monterosso at about 1800.

Cinque Terra coastline

We spent 3 nights at the Villa Adriana in Monterosso, the most northern of the 5 villages that perch on the cliffs overlooking the sea and are known as Cinque Terra.

Monterosso

Unusual Monterosso Church

Theme continues inside

The weather was hot and sunny and we had a swim each afternoon to cool down.

Gigantor watches over the beach where we swam

We had a 2 day train pass that allows you to travel from village to village. We had hoped to do some walking along the trails beside the water but the shortest from Riomaggiore to Manarola was closed. With temperatures in the 30s we decided the train was a good option. Our first full day, Sunday, we visited Riomaggiore and Manarola.

Riomaggiore boat harbour

Manarola

Launching a dinghy – Just like the Etchells at RQYS, dinghies are lowered into the small harbour at Manarola.

Jumping from the rocks at Manarola

Cliff jumping – It a long way down

They were packed with locals and tourists swimming, jumping off cliffs, eating, drinking and shopping. The streets were narrow and no cars are allowed in the town centres.

Riomaggiore streets

We enjoyed dinner overlooking the water in the cooler evening temperatures. Monday was less crowded and we visited Corniglia and Vernazza. Unlike the other villages, Corniglia is perched on a cliff and does not have direct access to the water. It was 342 steps to the top!

342 steps to Corniglia

Corniglia basket weaver

Vernazza has a picturesque little Harbour that is much photographed. We climbed to the top of Doria Castle which turned out to be a lookout for pirates but had a great view.

Vernazza

Vernazza harbour

Warren took one of the bikes from the villa for a ride after our swim but couldn’t get far with the hills as it was a single speed bike. We enjoyed our best spaghetti so far – a huge dish of mussels, prawns and clams in a delicious sauce.

“Ave Maria” Bike and Barge cruise

This entry is part 20 of 24 in the series 2015 Europe

We had a great time over the last week. The boat was very comfortable and the crew happy and helpful. The food was spectacular – superbly cooked regional favourites by Giuliano and Enrico that were also beautifully presented.

The always smiling chef Enrico

Every one of the 6 crew pitched in when needed. Chefs helped moor the boat and our mechanico Riccardo cooked risotto and his Grandmothers special dessert with zabaglione on the final night.

Mechanico Riccardo

Capitano Tullio served tables and unloaded bikes. They all seemed to be having fun most of the time.

Capitano Tullio – a man of few words (English ones anyway)

Our guides Alessandro and Marco were well informed and entertaining. They spoke 4 languages and this all translated to a wonderful experience for their guests. We had 2 other Australians on board, 2 Germans, 8 Canadians, 4 Swiss and 11 Americans, 29 in total.

Guiliano and Marco

Alessandro

We said our goodbyes then caught a cab to the Mantova train station for the first leg of our trip to Monterosso.

Mantova

This entry is part 19 of 24 in the series 2015 Europe

Montova, Italy

We left about 9 am for a 39 km loop around the Mantova district. First stop was a small town Grazie which is home to a beautiful church with many superb carvings inside. No pictures allowed but there were some graphic sculptures of the fate of sinners.

We then cycled through more farming country before stopping at Rivalta. We visited the small museum of the Mincio River that ran past the town. After a nasty gravel section to avoid travelling on busy roads, we stopped for lunch beside one of the 3 lakes that surround Mantova.

Got one!

Another beautiful, sunny day. After a shower back on the boat we headed into town for a guided tour of the town centre. We saw the Palazza Ducale which was home to the Gonzaga family for 400 years until the early 18th century. They supported the arts and the palace has many fine frescos which we unfortunately could not see.

Palazza Ducale

We then visited the 2 enormous cathedrals and a small circular church.

Three distinct styles in this cathedral in Mantova

Church, Cheese and Carnival

This entry is part 18 of 24 in the series 2015 Europe

Zelo to Mantova, Italy

Another day cycling on quiet roads and along the top of the levee banks beside the Po River. We had a short stop at a little church that had been rebuilt after being destroyed by bombing during WW2.

Beautiful countryside

“Andiamo” – we go!

From here it was a short cycle to the cheese factory at Bergantino. They make a cheese called Grana Padano which is only made north of the Po River. It is like Parmesan which is make south of the Po.

Marco translating

The only difference is that the cows that produce the milk for Grana Padano are fed corn as well as grass, wheat and other cereals. We wondered where the cows were as we hadn’t seen any on our travels. Apparently they are kept in sheds because of air pollution (may be a problem in translation I suspect). They only make 40 rounds per week and the cheese is matured for 9 months before selling for 400 Euros. It tasted great with the wine served to us.

That’s a lot of cheese

From here we rode a short distance to Bergatino where there is a Ride Museum. This area has a history of travelling carnivals and making amusement rides. They make 50% of the rides found in amusement parks around the world. Fascinating place which also had mechanical music like we saw in Rudesheim.

Lunch was in a shady park in the town of Ostiglia. We bought some water in a little Patisserie so we could use the bathroom and discovered with my minimal Italian that the owner’s aunt lived in Brisbane. She gave us a delicious cake to try. It is a small world sometimes.

Sunflowers

We met the boat at Governolo for the trip to Mantova. We covered 50 kms today in bright sunshine and temps around 30 degrees.

River Po and Ferrara

This entry is part 17 of 24 in the series 2015 Europe

Adria to Zelo, Italy

We were awoken at 0620 by the engines as Capitano Tullio eased us away from the dock at Adria. We passed through a lock with a lifting bridge and motored through breakfast to arrive at Bosaro at about 0900.

We offloaded the bikes and began to ride. After 12km we stopped at Polesella for a coffee and toilet stop. After this we crossed the Po River and rode on top of a levee bank beside the Po River with corn, grape vines and fruit trees on the left. Beautiful scenery and little or no traffic.

River Po

We arrived at Ferrara at 1345 and we had two and a half hours to wander the town.

Ferrara Street

Ferrara Duomo

Warren visited the museum in the castle which he enjoyed.

From here we caught a bus to meet our boat at the small village of Zelo. I think everyone fell asleep during the 45 minute trip after a 40 km day in bright sunshine and temperatures approaching 30 degrees.

Guide Marco with tonight’s dessert

After dinner we wandered up to the local pub where darts was popular. Warren and Alex were beaten by Marco and Guilliano in a tight contest!

Graceful losers at darts – Warren with Allesandro

Unexpected Museums

This entry is part 16 of 24 in the series 2015 Europe

Choggia to Adria, Italy

We left the ship early and went to see the fish market at Chioggia and then a visit to the Clock Tower at the church.

Chioggia – also known as little Venice

What we thought would be a quick trek up the stairs to the top for a few pictures turned into a fascinating hour with the priest who explained some of the local history.

14th Century documents

We were also shown (and touched!) 14th century documents were written on sheep skin. 1500 of these documents were found in the walls. We also saw what they claimed was the oldest working clock in the world (built 1386). Google agrees it is one of the three oldest in the world.

Oldest clock in the world??

From here we cycled through the Po delta on a hot day to rendezvous with the ship at Porto Vida after 46 km.

Great cycling along the Po River

We boarded the Ave Maria and sailed to our final destination, Adria. We had read there was a good Archeological Museum here and we spent a great 1.5 hours with one of the museum staff who took pity on our inability to read the Italian descriptions of the exhibits and gave us a personal tour. The finds from the Greeks, Etruscan, Celts and Romans were amazing. The photos are just some on the wonderful exhibits.

Adria museum – 3 horses and wagon buried with the chief found near Adria.

Roman find

Roman glassware – spectacular design and colours

Dinner tonight was a seafood salad and sea bass all bought by cooks Giuliano and Enrico at the Chioggia markets this morning. Magnifico!

Biking down the Venice Islands

This entry is part 15 of 24 in the series 2015 Europe

Venice to Chioggia, Italy

We started the day with a cruise down the Grand Canal of Venice before heading across the lagoon to the Lido where we hopped on our bikes for the first time.

We say farewell to Venice

Cruising down the Venice lagoon

We cycled up the Lido on the beach side and stopped for morning tea at Lido di Venezia before cycling south on the lagoon side of the island.

Our route down the islands

Cycling north beside the Adriatic sea off Lido

Morning tea stop

Popular Lido Beach

Cycling south beside the lagoon

Lunch was at the “beach” near where they are building one of three large “inflatable dams” as part of the Moses Project to try to stop the flooding that happens in Venice. Global warming means this has become a frequent event and the dams should be completed next year after 13 years construction. Let’s hope it works.

Lunch stop – not quite a Queensland beach

After lunch we caught a ferry to Pellistrina, a narrow island where fishing is the main industry. Very quiet and classic fishing villages.

Ferry trip to the island of Pellistrina

Pellistrina

After a detour to a nature reserve at the south of the island we boarded the Ave Maria for the short trip to Chioggia, our destination for the night.

Sea wall to Ca Roman Nature Reserve

Chioggia