Nelson Great Taste – Day 3 – Nelson to Motueka

This entry is part 4 of 14 in the series 2018 New Zealand

Today started with a visit to WOW – World of Wearableart and Classic Cars Museum. Wearable (just wearable, in some cases) art that is submitted for a yearly fashion show in Wellington. It is amazing the imagination and skill of some people.

It was then a short drive to start our cycle across Rabbit Island. We cycled on trails across the island 12 km to a ferry to take us across the inlet to Mapua and our cafe for lunch.

We were questioning the wisdom of a generous lunch as we began the cycle through Ruby Bay and over a steep pinch towards Tasman. The next part was on the Tasman View Rd – always a hint of climbing to come. I had to walk a couple of times (unlike Warren) as the steepness on the gravel surface proved too much.

We were rewarded with nice views at the top and a great downhill to the town of Motueka – 12 + 31km and 221m up made this our hardest day to date.

Nelson Great Taste – Day 2 – Blenheim to Nelson

This entry is part 3 of 14 in the series 2018 New Zealand

Our day started with a 16 km drive from Blenheim to Rarangi for a 16 km ride on bike paths back to Blenheim. Rarangi is on the beach and a popular camping spot.

We stopped at the Millenium rock on the way which had holes drilled in it to view sunrise on 1/1/2000 and the inland mountains.

From Blenheim we drove across the range to Nelson. This area is the heart of the famous Marlborough wine country and we passed many well known winery vineyards.

We passed through Nelson to Wakefield to cycle back on the start of the Great Taste Cycle Path. It was generally well signposted, compacted gravel or bitumen and went alongside the coast as we approached Nelson. Unfortunately Cyclone Gita damaged some parts which are still closed.

Our motel for the night (Harbourside Lodge) was on the marina at the port and we enjoyed the view from our balcony.

Nelson Great Taste Trail – Day 1 – Christchurch to Blenheim

This entry is part 2 of 14 in the series 2018 New Zealand

We were picked up at our hotel this morning by our guides Rachel and Vicki from Adventure South. Joined by 7 other cyclists from Austria, Australia, NZ and the United States, it was to be a long day today in our minibus with trailer in tow.

We started the drive in thick fog and drove for about an hour to the small town of Waikari where we adjusted our bikes and headed for a 25 km ride along a quiet country road to Greta Valley to check the bikes were ok. It was much hotter than we expected and we worked up quite a sweat going up the hills.

We then got back on the bus for a short drive to Cheviot for lunch. The rest of the afternoon was spent getting to our motel in Blenheim. Unfortunately this part of the country suffered a severe earthquake in 2016 which closed Highway 1 for 13 months. The road is now open but there is still a lot of roadworks so the going was slow.

We had a short stop at Kaikoura to stretch the legs and check out the beach.

On the next section of road we saw where the seabed had risen 2m due to the earthquake and exposed new rocks. Seals basked on rocks while workmen stopped us regularly.

New rocks raised by the earthquake

We arrived at Blenheim at 1730, looking forward to a hot shower and dinner at the pub across the road.

South Island, New Zealand, 2018

This entry is part 1 of 14 in the series 2018 New Zealand

After an early flight out of Brisbane we arrived in Christchurch at 1330 and caught the bus into town. After settling in to our hotel, we went for a walk around the city centre. The ruins of the cathedral stand as a stark reminder of the devastation caused by the February 2011 earthquake.

Lyon, France

This entry is part 31 of 31 in the series 2017 UK and Europe
Nimes arena

We left on Saturday on the midday train from Aigues-Mortes to Nimes. A bargain at 1 Euro. We had a couple of hours in Nimes where we had planned to visit the impressive Roman arena however the site was closed as the Pentecost Festival was on.

Nimes cowboy

We wandered around the streets taking in the street entertainment but as we had a train to catch to Lyon we missed the parading of the bulls through the streets and the dancing horses.

Gothic cathedral to St John the Baptist

We spent 2 nights in Lyon and purchased a Lyon City Card to access museums, trains and trams and a river cruise.

Boules competition in the main square

Unfortunately as Monday was a public holiday, many museums were closed but we did get to see the impressive Gallo-Roman Museum, the ultra-modern Musee des Confluences and the Museum of Miniatures and Cinema. All very different but very interesting.

Roman ampitheatre
Roman mosaic

The Romans founded a town on the banks of the Saone river in 43BC. They built high on the hill overlooking the river and the Museum is built into the hill overlooking the Roman theatre and Odeon. The ruins were only rediscovered in the 1970s and are still used for performances once a year.

Musee des Confluences

The Musee des Confluences tells the story of mankind and the history of life. Beautifully presented exhibits and an app to tell the story, we had time for only a small sample of the displays.

Realistic Display at the Musee des Confluences

Warren was keen to see the Museum of Miniatures and it was also fascinating.

Original latex prosthetic worn by Robin Williams
Scene Miniature
Looks real but only 500mm wide

It houses many original Hollywood costumes and miniatures from movies such as Batman and Independence Day. There were film clips to show the magic of Hollywood and a room full of miniature scenes.

A lot of Italian influences in Lyon

We also did a walking tour of the old city and a cruise on the Saone River down to where it joins the Rhone (The Confluence) and this gave a different view of the city.

Lots of modern architecture

Before we knew it our time was up and we were packing for the final trip home. It had been a great holiday with old and new friends filled with amazing sights and experiences.

Feeling homesick

Aigues-Mortes Loops

This entry is part 30 of 31 in the series 2017 UK and Europe
Friendly farmer giving us some apricots

We started the day with a loop to the north of our mooring spot. A good bike lane along the canal for 10 km and then quiet country lanes.

Morning tea was at Le Cailiere where there were signs for the bull run through the streets the next day and a bull fight in the arena. Lunch was at Saint Laurent d’Aigouze where there is a bull ring right next to the church.

Next stop is the Tour Carbonniere built as a watchtower and toll booth in medieval times. On the way we saw flocks of flamingoes in the salt marshes that are all around this area. Aigues-Mortes means Dead Waters referring to these many marshes around the town.

Back to the barge for a short stop to allow those who wanted to swim to change before heading south the short distance to Le Grau du Roi on the Mediterranean Sea.

Le Grau des Roi

We were surprised by the amount of development given the surrounding countryside is sparsely populated.

Some swam while we wandered around and bought an ice cream as it was a very hot afternoon.

We cycled 42km in the morning and 15km in the afternoon to give a total of 270km for this week. The cycling was flatter than our first bike & barge trip and quieter rides overall.

Route of ride Aigues-Mortes Loop North – 40km

Route of ride Aigues-Mortes Loop South – 15km

Friday night after dinner we headed into town with our new American friends to check out a bar recommended by Marco. Tac Tac Bar has hundreds of bottles of liquor all around the bar. There are separate menus for beer, wine and spirits and the barman seems to know where to find each bottle. A great way to finish this trip.

On Saturday morning, we said our goodbyes and headed into town to look at the Tour de Constance and the old city walls. These were built by Louis IX to protect the only Mediterranean port that France had at the time. Over 1600m long, they are well preserved and you can walk all around the ramparts. Unfortunately we ran out of time as we had a train to catch to Nimes and then Lyon for our final 2 nights in France.

Arles to Aigues-Mortes

This entry is part 29 of 31 in the series 2017 UK and Europe

We cycled into town and met Martine, a local guide who was taking us for a walk around the old town.

Arles
Van Gogh’s garden

We started at a garden where Van Gogh had painted during his time here (some of which was spent in a mental hospital after he cut off his ear).

Venus d’Arles

From here to the town hall where we saw a replica of the sculpture Venus d’Arles that is at The Louvre. The original was found under the Roman theatre here in Arles in the 18th century.

Roman arena in Arles

This was a Roman centre so boasts significant ruins of a theatre and arena. After our walk we bought a pass to visit the monuments we had seen.

Roman Theatre
How it might have looked

We spent the next 2 hours marvelling yet again at the grandeur of the Roman constructions. The street level is now about 5 meters higher than in Roman times so we had to go down under the town hall to visit the Crypto Porticos.

Roman Crypto Porticos

These housed stalls that opened onto a large square in the centre of town. At 1pm we were on the bikes for a short 20 km cycle to Saint Gilles to meet the barge. On the way we sighted white horses and bulls, famous in this area.

Marco after feeding apples to the horses
Bulls destines for the arena (French bull fighting)

They still bull fight here in the summer at the arena. They do Spanish bull fighting so the bull is killed. In other towns we had seen small arenas where French style of bull fighting occurs. The bull is not killed and the bull is smaller with the horns pointing up (instead of out).

Canal du Rhone a Sete

We then boarded the barge for a 3 hour cruise to Aigues-Mortes. On the way we spotted some flamingoes but I hope to get a better photo tomorrow.

Route of ride from Arles to Saint Gilles – 24 km

Vallabregues to Arles

This entry is part 28 of 31 in the series 2017 UK and Europe

Today was the longest day of the trip (56km) with a 4 km climb included. We left the barge just after 9 and had our first stop for pictures and water at the castle of Tarascon.

Water stop at the castle at Tarascon

Morning tea was at the town of St Remy, famous as the birthplace of Nostradamus. After tea at a cafe, we wandered through the streets and markets eventually finding Nostradamus’ house.

Morning tea at St Remy
Birthplace of Nostradamus

Next was the climb of the day – 4 km in light rain which helped to cool us all down. We were offered a trip up the hill in the company van which 4 people in our group accepted. It wasn’t too bad although the low gear in this bike is not as low as mine at home.

Sag wagon for those not wanting to do the 4km climb
We made it

From here it was only a kilometre to Les Baux des Provence. Bauxite was first discovered in this area and the name comes from the town. There was also limestone mined in the area and some creative people decided to turn the the old mine into the venue for a multimedia show.

Carrieres de Lumieres entrance
Old limestone mine
Transformed

It featured 2000 images based on works by Bosch, Bruegel and Arcimboldo and classical and modern music including Led Zeppelin’s Stairway to Heaven. It was amazing!

Art set to music
Amazing

The good part of a 4 km climb is usually it is followed by a 4 km descent.

Mine is the orange one!

We enjoyed ours and the trip to Arles included a stop to view the remains of another Roman aqueduct, this one taking water to Arles.

Roman aqueduct taking water to Arles

Not as much left as at Pont du Gard but still interesting. Just another 10km from here to Arles, where we saw the sad remains of the Soleo.

Route of ride from Vallebregues to Arles – 56km

“Soleo”
Le Caprice

Aramon to Vallabregues

This entry is part 27 of 31 in the series 2017 UK and Europe
Our travelling companion L’Estello

We started the day with another breakfast cruise, this time to Vallabrègues, a pretty Provençal village on the banks of the Rhône.

Marco found a nice closed road for a few kms

Then off on the bikes again along country roads to Barbentane situated at the confluence of the Rhone and Durance rivers. This is a lovely old village has the remains of a castle, a watchtower, narrow streets, ramparts and gates.

Narrow streets of Barbentane
Tower Angelica in Barbentane and remains of the castle
Barbentane streetscape
Windmill in Barbentane

Our lunch stop was at the magnificent Abbey of Saint Michel de Frigulet.

Everything closed at lunchtime but a shady spot
Abbey church

Final stop was the medieval village of Boulbon where we stopped for a cold drink after another hot day.

Bar stop at the end of the ride

Route of our ride – Vallabregues loop – 40km

Avignon to Aramon

This entry is part 26 of 31 in the series 2017 UK and Europe
Avignon’s Pont St Benezet

Our day started with a breakfast cruise to Aramon, only 15 km away.

We moored at a nice new pontoon but the town itself was a short distance away. By 0930 we were on the bikes and heading along quiet country roads through small villages towards one of the most well known sights of Provence – Pont du Gard.

Pont du Gard

This impressive Roman aqueduct is the highest (at nearly 50m) and one of the best preserved and was part of the 50km long Nimes aqueduct.

Decorative detail

We had several hours to wander the site, watch the movie of it’s construction and visit the excellent museum.

Recreation of the tools used to build the bridge

From here we rode along more quiet roads before we reached the winery Cave des Vignerons in the village of Montfrin. We were surprised to find the skeleton of a Siberian mammoth here. The connection to wine production was unclear, however it does make a good logo for the company.

From here it was a short distance back to our barge for a hot shower and dinner. After dinner we went for a walk into Aramon with Marco. We saw another bull ring, but there were no bars or cafes open and the streets were deserted. When we got back to the barge we found some fisherman with a large catfish they had caught. We took some photos, they took some, then some more, and more until we were worried the poor fish wouldn’t survive when they released it back into the river. Eventually it swam slowly off and we headed off to bed.

Route of today’s ride – Aramon loop – 43km