Series: 2015 Europe

Venice, Italy

After a week on the trains it was time for a bit of exercise. We were booked on a 8 day cruise from Venice to Mantova on the barge Ave Maria.

The barge is moored across the lagoon from Venice with regular ferries to see the sights. We are taken to our cabin which is roomier than we expected and has its own head (bathroom).

After an afternoon briefing where we were introduced to the crew, we enjoyed the first of many wonderful meals on the Ave Maria. Chefs Guiliano and Enrico used local produce to make regional favourites which they described to us each evening before our meal was served.

On Sunday we caught a ferry to Venice where we met up with a local guide who showed us her Venice. We left the crowded Piazza San Marco behind and wandered through some small squares, each with their own church. I was amazed how few tourists left the main streets to explore these gems. our guide had lived in Venice her entire life and said locals were concerned at how many tourists now visited.

After the tour, we wandered the streets, trying not to get lost. In the afternoon we caught the ferry to the island of Murano which is famous for its glass blowing and glassware.

Venice to Chioggia, Italy

We started the day with a cruise down the Grand Canal of Venice before heading across the lagoon to the Lido where we hopped on our bikes for the first time.

We cycled up the Lido on the beach side and stopped for morning tea at Lido di Venezia before cycling south on the lagoon side of the island.

Lunch was at the “beach” near where they are building one of three large “inflatable dams” as part of the Moses Project to try to stop the flooding that happens in Venice. Global warming means this has become a frequent event and the dams should be completed next year after 13 years construction. Let’s hope it works.

After lunch we caught a ferry to Pellistrina, a narrow island where fishing is the main industry. Very quiet and classic fishing villages.

After a detour to a nature reserve at the south of the island we boarded the Ave Maria for the short trip to Chioggia, our destination for the night.

Choggia to Adria, Italy

We left the ship early and went to see the fish market at Chioggia and then a visit to the Clock Tower at the church.

What we thought would be a quick trek up the stairs to the top for a few pictures turned into a fascinating hour with the priest who explained some of the local history.

We were also shown (and touched!) 14th century documents were written on sheep skin. 1500 of these documents were found in the walls. We also saw what they claimed was the oldest working clock in the world (built 1386). Google agrees it is one of the three oldest in the world.

From here we cycled through the Po delta on a hot day to rendezvous with the ship at Porto Vida after 46 km.

We boarded the Ave Maria and sailed to our final destination, Adria. We had read there was a good Archeological Museum here and we spent a great 1.5 hours with one of the museum staff who took pity on our inability to read the Italian descriptions of the exhibits and gave us a personal tour. The finds from the Greeks, Etruscan, Celts and Romans were amazing. The photos are just some on the wonderful exhibits.

Dinner tonight was a seafood salad and sea bass all bought by cooks Giuliano and Enrico at the Chioggia markets this morning. Magnifico!

Adria to Zelo, Italy

We were awoken at 0620 by the engines as Capitano Tullio eased us away from the dock at Adria. We passed through a lock with a lifting bridge and motored through breakfast to arrive at Bosaro at about 0900.

We offloaded the bikes and began to ride. After 12km we stopped at Polesella for a coffee and toilet stop. After this we crossed the Po River and rode on top of a levee bank beside the Po River with corn, grape vines and fruit trees on the left. Beautiful scenery and little or no traffic.

We arrived at Ferrara at 1345 and we had two and a half hours to wander the town.

Warren visited the museum in the castle which he enjoyed.

From here we caught a bus to meet our boat at the small village of Zelo. I think everyone fell asleep during the 45 minute trip after a 40 km day in bright sunshine and temperatures approaching 30 degrees.

After dinner we wandered up to the local pub where darts was popular. Warren and Alex were beaten by Marco and Guilliano in a tight contest!

Zelo to Mantova, Italy

Another day cycling on quiet roads and along the top of the levee banks beside the Po River. We had a short stop at a little church that had been rebuilt after being destroyed by bombing during WW2.

From here it was a short cycle to the cheese factory at Bergantino. They make a cheese called Grana Padano which is only made north of the Po River. It is like Parmesan which is make south of the Po.

The only difference is that the cows that produce the milk for Grana Padano are fed corn as well as grass, wheat and other cereals. We wondered where the cows were as we hadn’t seen any on our travels. Apparently they are kept in sheds because of air pollution (may be a problem in translation I suspect). They only make 40 rounds per week and the cheese is matured for 9 months before selling for 400 Euros. It tasted great with the wine served to us.

From here we rode a short distance to Bergatino where there is a Ride Museum. This area has a history of travelling carnivals and making amusement rides. They make 50% of the rides found in amusement parks around the world. Fascinating place which also had mechanical music like we saw in Rudesheim.

Lunch was in a shady park in the town of Ostiglia. We bought some water in a little Patisserie so we could use the bathroom and discovered with my minimal Italian that the owner’s aunt lived in Brisbane. She gave us a delicious cake to try. It is a small world sometimes.

We met the boat at Governolo for the trip to Mantova. We covered 50 kms today in bright sunshine and temps around 30 degrees.

Montova, Italy

We left about 9 am for a 39 km loop around the Mantova district. First stop was a small town Grazie which is home to a beautiful church with many superb carvings inside. No pictures allowed but there were some graphic sculptures of the fate of sinners.

We then cycled through more farming country before stopping at Rivalta. We visited the small museum of the Mincio River that ran past the town. After a nasty gravel section to avoid travelling on busy roads, we stopped for lunch beside one of the 3 lakes that surround Mantova.

Another beautiful, sunny day. After a shower back on the boat we headed into town for a guided tour of the town centre. We saw the Palazza Ducale which was home to the Gonzaga family for 400 years until the early 18th century. They supported the arts and the palace has many fine frescos which we unfortunately could not see.

We then visited the 2 enormous cathedrals and a small circular church.

We had a great time over the last week. The boat was very comfortable and the crew happy and helpful. The food was spectacular – superbly cooked regional favourites by Giuliano and Enrico that were also beautifully presented.

Every one of the 6 crew pitched in when needed. Chefs helped moor the boat and our mechanico Riccardo cooked risotto and his Grandmothers special dessert with zabaglione on the final night.

Capitano Tullio served tables and unloaded bikes. They all seemed to be having fun most of the time.

Our guides Alessandro and Marco were well informed and entertaining. They spoke 4 languages and this all translated to a wonderful experience for their guests. We had 2 other Australians on board, 2 Germans, 8 Canadians, 4 Swiss and 11 Americans, 29 in total.

We said our goodbyes then caught a cab to the Mantova train station for the first leg of our trip to Monterosso.