Croatia road trip

This entry is part 11 of 14 in the series 2019 Europe

Tuesday, 4 June to Sunday, 9 June 2019

After breakfast, we took a cab to the bus station for the 4 and a half hour trip to Zagreb. All went well until the Croatian border where all our passports were collected and we sat in the hot bus for over 30 minutes wondering if we would ever see our passports again. Croatia is part of the EU but is the only country so far that has wanted to see our passports. We eventually got to our hotel, a beautiful old building that was the first hotel in Zagreb. Only 1 night here but we enjoyed some of the sights.

Our hotel in centre of photo

The cathedral is being renovated stone by stone, after years of neglect by the Nazis and Communists and resultant erosion as shown above.

On Wednesday morning we picked up a hire car and drove to Plitvice Lakes. On the way we visited the small water mill village of Rastoke. Once 22 mills were used for grinding grain while linen and carpets were washed in big baskets under the falls.

Plitvice National Park is UNESCO listed and after a day exploring the park I understand why. Entry to the park includes bus and boat rides so you can see all the sights in less than a day.

On Friday, we drove to Pula on the Istria peninsular. On the way we passed a number of memorials to the Homeland War (Croatian War of Independence) waged from 1991 to1995. There are still a lot of damaged and burnt out properties in the areas we drove through.

Warren was keen to see the Roman Arena in Pula and was not disappointed. It is the sixth largest left in the world at 135m long by 105m wide. The Colosseum for comparison is 189m long by 156m wide. This Arena however has had better conservation and has much smaller crowds visiting.

Under arena area used to be where animals and gladiators waited to enter arena

Also in the town are one of the Roman gates, a triumphal arch and a temple. The Roman theatre was off limits as they are doing renovations on the museum.

Temple of Augustus

There was also a Venetian fort built on the hill. 

There was certainly lots to to see in this small town!

Croatia Bike and Boat – Part 1

This entry is part 12 of 14 in the series 2019 Europe

Sunday, 9 June to Wednesday, 12 June 2019

On Sunday we drove from Pula to the Island of Krk. This trip travelled through some mountainous terrain and the road infrastructure of bridges and tunnels would have impressed my Dad, the engineer.

We arrived at Omisalj to find the Andela Lora and our guides Petra and Vili there to greet us. As we had some time until we could board, we wandered along the foreshore admiring the crystal clear water of the Adriatic Sea.

At 2pm we cast off and motored to the town of Cres on the island of Cres. To make it easy, the capital of each island has the same name as the island.

Before dinner, Vili took us for a town walk and pointed out the medieval and Venetian landmarks. We have a multicultural group with cyclists from Germany, Canada, Switzerland, Mexico, Australia, England and a lone American. All briefings and talks are in both German and English.

Venetian lion on crest

On Monday morning, we motored to the town of Martinscica where our bikes were off loaded and we cycled 23 kms to the town of Osor. We have e-bikes for this trip as it is quite hilly around here. I was glad for the help as I had a cold and I enjoyed cruising up the hills as if it was flat!

Petra explaining how to use the e-bike

Unfortunately it was very hot and several people suffered from heat exhaustion. We were glad to arrive back at the boat and go for a swim off the back.

We then motored to the island of Losinj where we anchored for another swim before tying up in the town of Mali Losinj.

On Tuesday morning, we did a loop ride of 17km to Veli Losinj.

After lunch we motored to the small island of Molat where we cycled the length of the island (14km) before rejoining the ship at Brgulje. There were the remains of a concentration work camp here from WW2.

Brgulje Bay is popular with yachts

On Wednesday, we motored to the Island of Dugi for our longest ride so far, 40km from Bozava to Sali. Very hot, very hilly and very windy. I love my e-bike!

Once we were all back on board we sailed to the large city of Zadar on the mainland. We stopped for a couple of hours in the bay for those who wanted to swim before tying up in the centre of town. We had a city walk with a local guide who showed us the Roman, Medieval and Venetian gates, columns and walls. Zadar also has a Sea Organ in the seawall where waves create music in the pipes.

9th century St Donatus church
Old Roman columns used in the foundations of the church

We had dinner in town and stayed to see the sunset which Alfred Hitchcock in 1964 described as the best in the world. Lots of haze on our visit so Lizard Island sunsets still hold top spot for me.

Croatia Bike and Boat – Part 2

This entry is part 13 of 14 in the series 2019 Europe

Thursday, 13 June to Sunday, 16 June 2019

On Thursday morning we were awoken at 6.30 as the Andela Lora set sail for the island of Pag. After a leisurely breakfast we set off on our bikes from Novalja, cycling 20kms along the island to the small port of Lun where our ship was waiting.

Ride briefing from Willy

Not as much wind today but a lot of dead snakes on the road. This is quite bleak countryside as the Bora winds have blown away the topsoil leaving rocks exposed. These rocks have been used to build walls in the fields to protect the olive trees and sheep from the winds which can reach 200 km/hr.

Andela Lora motoring to our rendezvous
Mary, one of the legends without an ebike

After boarding our ship we have a short motor across to the island of Rab. We anchored in a small bay for anyone who wanted to swim and then moored in town for the night. The fortified town of Pag was built in the Middle Ages on a wedge shaped headland and is easily recognised by its 4 bell towers.

We had a tour around the city in the afternoon and then a demonstration and taste of Rab cake. This cake was first served in 1177 to Pope Alexander III when he consecrated the Cathedral in Rab. It is usually shaped into a spiral and lasts up to 2 months.

Old crests got recycled when the town was invaded

On Friday morning we rode our bikes 21kms to one of the few sand (coarse) beaches we have seen in the Adriatic.

Warren enjoying a brisk dip

This is the home island for our guide Petra whose family has lived on the island for over 200 years. We cycled along the promenade most of the way and enjoyed our swim.

School kids celebrating the end of school

Back on the boat it was across to the mainland again so we could visit Zavratnica fjord. This involved a 4km hike in HOT conditions but it was a beautiful spot.

Swimming off the back of the boat afterwards cooled everyone down.

Lastly we motored across to the town of Krk on the island of (you guessed it) Krk.

Our last bike ride was 44km across the island to our starting point for this tour, Omisalj. It had 650m of climbing and was again a hot day. The e-bikes have been great as I have had a cold all week and wouldn’t have been able to ride without them.

We saw some sheep being sheared and had lunch in a small cafe en route in the small village of Dobrinj. We decided against the mud baths unlike some of our intrepid friends.

Celebrating the end of the trip with our Canadian friends Cate and Del

Our final night dinner was an opportunity to say goodbye to friends and thank our crew for looking after us for the last week. Our week’s riding covered 179km with over 2300m of climbing.

Zagreb and Budapest

This entry is part 14 of 14 in the series 2019 Europe

Sunday, 16 June 2019 to Thursday, 20 June 2019

We were driven back to Zagreb on Sunday morning in a minibus organised by the boat tour company. After taking our bags to our hotel, I was dismayed to find my camera missing. After calling Willy who checked the boat without success, we tracked it down to the minibus. Luckily the driver hadn’t returned to Krk and Warren collected it from him. While waiting for our room, we visited the Museum of War with its photo exhibition of the Croatian Homeland War from 1991 to 1995. Very moving and confronting images.

After wandering through a market in the park, we had a short visit to the Art Museum where we saw the Baska Tablet which dates from about 1100.

Originally in a church on the island of Krk, it is the first mention of the Croatian name in the Croatian language. From that time, Croatia was ruled by Hungary, Venice, Ottoman Empire, Habsburg Empire, Yugoslavia (after WWI) and Soviets (after WW2) before gaining independence in 1991. Any wonder many Croatians we spoke to wanted to move on from the turmoil of the past.

After a night in Zagreb it was back on the bus for the trip to Budapest. We were booked into Callas House on Andrassy Boulevard next to the Opera House. This street is similar to the Champs Elysees in Paris and terminates at the impressive Heroes Square.

No crowds at Heroes Square in the early morning

On Tuesday we visited the Hungarian National Museum which is housed in an impressive Neoclassical building.

We then walked across town to the Great Market Hall, which sells locally grown fruit and veg, meats and souvenirs.

Our last stop for the day was a tour of the Opera House, which excluded the main theatre which was undergoing extensive renovations. What we saw was opulent and our tour finished with a short concert on the main staircase.

On Wednesday it was time to leave Europe and face the long flight back to Brisbane. It had been another great trip where we managed to pack a lot into our 6 weeks away.